I'm not sure we're living in an era where we still blush at a nude form. So when I saw Gemma Slack's collection that focuses on her interpretation of the 'femme fatale', her sexuality communicated through her body - which physically manifests into photographic prints that either has nudes dancing across layers of organza nad silks, another take on flora and fauna covering up private parts and straight forward trompe l'oeil nudes on swimsuits - there isn't necessarily a gasp moment but instead I'm more interested into whether the nudes are there to add aesthetic value or there just there purely to make a point. Gemma Slack has always worked the darker side of female sensibility in her clothes and that despite the leather, the black, it never goes too hard, making the clothes hard to feel close to. I can attest to that with a particular printed crop top that I wear to death and the more I wash it, the more the colours of the print seem to want to run into bleed into each other.
For S/S 11, together with Not Just a Label, she's launched another crop top as well as a swimsuit/body that are available to buy already. Using the nudes has actually been Slack's way of introducing colour into her collection and with the hues of bruised pink/purple, the torsos look impressionistic rather than straightforward photographic (thoguh the prints are derived from photographs by Kristin Vicari). On the crop top when the blue rose covers the nipples, which becomes another motif in the collection, it becomes even softer...
The use of chiffon trappings, used to enlongate silhouettes, was all over the shop for S/S 11... anything that's sheer and looks pretty blowing in the wind is a thumbs up from me...
A more menacing take on Little Red Riding Hood antics with a leather bonnet...
I love this collaboration with milliner Noel Stewart - the wider the brim the better and this one doesn't floop into your face either... the roses from the prints become leather rosettes which is another sign of Slack softening up and deliberately contrasting more feminine elements with tougher ones...
I particularly love them trailing on this chiffon piece... again, the whole err...sheer thing wafting in the wind...
Here the nudes become more blurred or slightly abstracted. There's even a slightly photographic and more macabre version of the Miu Miu S/S 10 'nude bods' shirt that was so well-loved, again laced with leather detailing. I love it particularly when the print does get more and more ambiguous, becoming a pattern not a form or a colour mish-mash of every nuance of flesh...
没有评论:
发表评论